By Bike

Day 34 (6th September) – Andermatt to Grindewald.

Some days are made for cycling in the mountains, and for me this was one of those days.

After the cold and wet of yesterday afternoon, a crisp fine dawn and a steep descent (read adrenalin rush) through Schöllenenschlucht (Schöllenen Gorge) aside the Teufelsbrücke (Devil’s Bridge) and turbulent Reuss River was just the heart starter needed to kick into gear!

Down the other side of the gorge, at Wassen, I farewelled Sam (who was opting for a shorter ride) and headed off alone on the journey to Susten Pass and Grosse Scheidegg.

As it seems with most of the mountain passes we’ve crossed, what once started as an old mule-train trading route, the Susten was transformed for strategic military purposes during the Napoleonic Wars where French troops used the route to trap Austrian and Russian forces. Primarily kept from then on for defence purposes, the road and pass officially opened for public use and tourists not long after the end of WWII.

This was a magical climb.

It began against and into the steep walls of the Reuss valley with a series of tunnels, switch-backs and a stone arch bridge spanning the narrow, wild and seemingly bottomless Meienreuss.

Upon exiting the final tunnel, the Meien opened out into a broad valley with a clear and distant view of Wendenhorn, bathed in sunshine and thrusting itself through the rapidly disappearing clouds.

A thin line cut across the slope marking my route up to the pass.

The air smelt fresh. Cow bells rang up and down the valley. Marmots whistled to each other. Waterfalls plunged from the sky, cascading through cracks in the cliffs or the coniferous forest lining the slopes.

I could hear the call of the glistening mountain beckoning me to dance on the pedals. I felt alive and in a state of flow, my breathing steady, my weight in the saddle, my calves and thighs working smoothly like well greased pistons.

The ascent, while long and steady, was not super steep. In the shadow of the mountains, with a cool breeze on my back, and in this state of being, climbing was an intoxicating endeavour.

And at least one creature was going slower than me!

Adding to the allure, I encountered little traffic. Even the motor-cyclists must have slept in! Mostly locals, walkers or climbers keen to stretch themselves and their necks on the surrounding peaks and passes. All drove past slowly.

Eventually the earth turned east enough to bathe the valley in glorious sunshine. The air now was thin now giving me renewed energy and speed in the knowledge that I was near the top and that at higher altitudes there is less air friction (drag).

A short tunnel separated the Meien Valley and the pass. For a few moments I was alone, able to soak up the cool, quiet and peacefulness of the area and gaze out west towards the Bernese Alps.

This side of the pass, the sky was almost free of cloud making for stunning views of glaciers, pale blue lakes and rugged peaks. And I could see below a thin line of road with switchbacks and tunnels sloping downwards which could only mean one thing – another beautiful and thrilling descent.

The valley from the pass merges with the upper reaches of the Aare River, one of the major rivers of Switzerland. It flows through several big lakes and cities including the capital Bern, eventually meeting up with the Rhine River at the German border.

It was now decidedly warm, so it was back into climbing apparel for the climb up Grosse Scheidegg.

Gross Schiedegg is a truely spectacular climb and considered one of the most scenic cycling passes in the Swiss Alps.

Under the shadow of the towering Tschingel, the approach to the pass runs through the forested Reichenbach valley and above the Reichenbach falls, best known as the place of the last fight between Sherlock Holmes and Professor James Moriaty.

Leaving the damp beech and coniferous forest the road opens out onto a flattish bench of lush alpine pasture against the jaw-dropping back-drop of the Aar Massif.

One of the things that makes this ride so special is that the upper reaches of the road are car-free. Only cyclists (lots of them) all along the route. Just a few sections where the gradients reach 16% to contend with.

The view from the top is breathtaking. Snow-capped peaks in every direction and my first glimpse of the famous Jungfrau and Eiger.

Once I had caught my breath, it was down the steep descent into Grindelwald to our stay for the next 5 days.

The view from our stay in Grindelwald is stunning, dominated by the iconic north face of the Eiger. I think I’ve found heaven…

According to Garmin