By Bike

Muggia to Pula.

A mid-summer journey south through the heart of Istria. Day one of a 5-day warm-up before heading to the Alps. I’m trying to temper my excitement and anticipation. The promise of gentler riding, swims in the Adriatic, Istrian cuisine, culture and history. Time to get used to us all travelling together in our cosy van.

A wild and spectacular electrical storm sweeps across the bay towards us the night before our ride. Is this an ominous portent of what lies ahead?

The morning though is crisp and clear. A warm dawn departure in clear blue skies.

Sam and I soon discover our route takes us on part of the historic Parenzana rail trail (www.parenzana.com) and Euro Vélo 8 cycleway (https://eurovelo.com/ev8).

We veer off onto some back roads that take us on a slow rise into the beautiful Istrian limestone landscape of rocky outcrops, thick pine, oak and hazel forest, broken from time to time by lush freshly cut pasture, giant corn and other verdant crops lapping up the terra rosa-like soil. 

I discover just how good my Passoni is on the twisting descents past Oprtalj. This is a bike made for the hills. Lovely and light for climbing, upon cresting it wants to take off. Each turn is easily navigated, no matter how sharp, making descending super-fun and super-fast! I’m tingling with joy…

Until mid-morning the roads are mostly in shade, hiding us from the increasingly intense sun.

We make our way over historic hill-top fort towns like Motovun where we try out riding a steep cobbled alley.

From then on, it becomes fiercely hot. 

We meet up with Sue and Liz for lunch in Pazin, a sleepy town in the middle of the peninsula. Thankfully from Pazin it is mostly down-hill with a stiff breeze at our back. Liz and Sue go ahead and set up a gorgeous campsite 50m from the sea. A lovely dip to finish a rich and wonderful day.

According to Garmin…