By Bike

Day 55 (27th September) – Puget-Théniers to Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Last day of our Alps Odyssey…

From Muggia (Italy) on the Adriatic coast to Villefranche-sur-Mer (France) on the Mediterranean via the full length of the European Alps.

6 countries. 33 days, 3,400+km by bike, 4,500+km for the camper van. 22 rest days. 30 categorised climbs. 50,000+m total ascent (@6 times up Mt Everest). 600+km descending at speeds between 40-80km/hr. 3 falls at 0-1km/hr. Temp range +40°C to -2°C, 1 day snow, 2 hrs rain over 3 days. Multiple minor route deviations, 2 major due to landslides. 1 broken chain, 3 punctures, 2 new tyres, new brake disc pads. 1 bee sting, 2 wasp stings. 300+ (50 kg) of bananas, too many pastries, not enough gelatos. 1,800 photos (mine alone). Countless memories.

First a ‘shortish’ climb over the Col de Saint-Raphaël and a lovely mostly downhill ride through the Parc naturel régional des Préalpes d’Azur to the Mediterranean coast.

Through fabulous gorges carved by the turquoise waters of the Estéron River, mixed oak, pine and beech forest, and little villages lined with olive and ubiquitous cypress trees.

Our destination was Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera.

A small picturesque harbour since prehistoric times, in 1295 Villefranche became a “free port”, granting it tax privileges to encourage settlement and secure the area from pirates.

A rich history, it also became a strategically important port for the Russian Imperial Navy from 1856 to World War I, then the U.S. 6th Fleet from 1948 to 1966. Today it provides ideal anchorage for sailing enthusiasts, fishers, cruise ships and marine researchers.

The areas fortifications and Royal Port of La Darse near our charming villa date back to the 16th century.

Strategic for us too, only a short bus trip into Nice.

A highlight for Sue and I was a visit to the Musée national message biblique Marc Chagall housing a stunning collection of Chagall stained glass windows, sculptures and paintings.

The centrepiece of the collection is a series of 12 large paintings by Chagall illustrating the books of Genesis and Exodus.

So to the end of our journey.

Riding along the Estéron River earlier in the day, I felt a sense of detachment from the whole experience, not an emptiness, rather a “so that’s it…!”, a feeling that it wasn’t quite real. At the same time, a deep feeling of satisfaction, accomplishment and sense of privilege that I could undertake such an adventure.

So many to thank for making this Alps Odyssey possible and so extraordinary….

Thank you to Stefano and the ateliers at Passoni for hand-crafting the most wonderful to ride and beautiful of bikes and to their agent McCyclery in Sydney; to Audrey and Justin O’Donohue from Adjust Pilates for getting me in shape; to my brother Graeme for teaching me how to eat and drink on an endurance ride – i.e. start within an hour and don’t stop!

Thank you Sam for asking to come along and being such a brilliant riding partner.

The ‘expedition‘ was only possible due to incredible support from Liz and Sue. Liz drove the camper van the whole (4,500+km) distance. Together, they had to navigate and figure out routes through 6 countries (5 languages), each with variations in rules, negotiate often tricky narrow village streets and find a campsite or a parking bay big enough for the van. They did nearly all the shopping, prepared and cooked all our meals, and set up and packed up all our camps. They replenished us with food and drink en route and after long hot or cold days in the saddle. And so many, many ways of support and encouragement.

Thank you Liz for your enthusiasm and energy, all the demanding and sometimes stressful driving, your yummy meals and snacks and for summoning the favourable riding conditions of Camelot.

Thank you Sue for encouraging me to follow my dreams and for all your support, patience and love.

And last but not least you the reader for coming along on the journey. It’s been quite a ride…

PS: One more instalment to come…

According to Garmin