By Bike

Day 50 (22nd September) – Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne to Briançon

The Col du Galibier (2,642m) looms large in cycling folklore.

Introduced to the Tour de France in 1911 by Henri Desgrange, the founder of the Tour, it has since been crossed 63 times, making it one of the most visited climbs in the race’s history. Galibier has taken on mythical status among the pantheon of tough climbs, often associated with dramatic and memorable performances.

I had barely climbed a kilometre when I noticed the surge of adrenalin. It felt like I had a second pair of legs. After reading or hearing so many stories, and often staying up past midnight to watch exciting races over Galibier live on tv, I realised this was going to be a climb of pure emotion.

Everything was in sync: breathing, posture, pedalling – a state of flow. Effort felt effortless. Total immersion. Completely focused. This is what I had come for. This was cycling at its best.

All the preparation, the training, the kilometres and the climbs leading up to this moment made this one of my most joyous rides.

I flew up the first section to the Col du Télégraphe.

From here, the road descended to the ski resort of Valloire, however there would be no stopping for 2nd breakfast today!

Once above the tree-line, the valley opened out affording ethereal views in all directions.

The sun was still low, casting long shadows across an olive carpet of alpine grasses hugging the slopes. Thick cloud rolled over sawtooth ridges slicing the sky.

The road twisted and turned through a giant field of ancient moraine. Fluffy, cotton-like seed heads scattered across a river of glaciated boulders and rubble.

A pair of marmots standing upright like sentinels on rocks overlooking the road watched me closely as I rode past. They remained motionless, almost at arms length, only turning and darting down a burrow when our eyes met.

At the Col it’s freezing as I’m met by a stiff cold wind blowing in from the south.

I see the Grand Galibier (3,228m) poking its head through the swirling cloud. I stay as long as I can to savour this moment and take in the immensity of the landscape.

The view down the Guisane river valley towards Briançon and across to the mountains of the Ecrins National Park is equally stunning.

Against the strong headwind, it takes nearly 21 minutes to make the steep (@7% average gradient) 8.5km descent to the Col du Lautaret. During this year’s Tour, Tadej Pogačar took less than 21 minutes going up other way!

Below the Col, the wind subsides, the temperature rises, I’m able to shed a layer of clothing and cruise the remaining descent into Briançon.

If you ever ride up the Col du Galibier from Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne, ride early on a Sunday morning in autumn and when the weather is kind. There will be little traffic, the road will be all yours, and you will be riding close to heaven.

According to Garmin