By Bike

Day 47 (19th September) – Le Grand-Bornand to Bourg-Saint-Maurice

Three significant climbs today – the most we have done in one day.

The advantage of three climbs in a day is the opportunity for 1st breakfast-1st climb, followed by 2nd breakfast-2nd climb, followed by elevenses-3rd climb.

First breakfast usually consists of a large bowl of muesli with yoghurt and banana consumed in the dark.

Today it was also particularly chilly. Extra layers of clothing were needed even whilst climbing. By the time we reached the top of our 1st climb – the Col de Aravis, the sun had barely kissed the surrounding peaks.

Which made for a rather bracing descent to our 2nd breakfast in the picturesque commune of Flumet, 1100 metres below. It didn’t take long however to find the perfect boulangerie: tasty pastries, good coffee and a warm place to sit.

By the time we reached our 2nd pass, the Col des Saisies, it had turned into a beautiful autumn day; one of those still, bright, crisp days where you feel toasty and warm in the sun or cool and slightly shivering in the shadows.

A surprise screeching halt on the way down to Beaufort for elevenses (which had become twelves), for a photo of the looming massif of Mont Blanc.

In the lovely commune of Beaufort (famous for its cheese), we found an agreeable sunny spot by a river to rehydrate, rest and eat our sandwiches.

Post lunch, our 3rd climb was the 20km long and steady ascent to the Cormet de Roselend. A steep climb via a narrow thickly forested valley that opens out at the Lac de Roselend (a reservoir constructed for hydroelectricity) before climbing again above the tree-line to the Cormet.

I recently came across a quote from the historian Simon Schama in Landscape and Memory, that landscape “is a text on which generations write their recurring obsessions”.

Very apt for adventurers and cyclists, and also cycling fans who love to paint the name of their heroes near the top of alpine passes.

Such is the case with those who idolise Raymond Poulidor.

It is nearly 50 years since he last raced, yet his legendary status persists. Known as “The Eternal Second”, for finishing on the Tour de France podium 8 times, but never in yellow, Poulidor became the most popular cyclist in France, instead winning the hearts of the public who identified with his struggles and perseverance. Even after his death 5 years ago, he is still one of the most revered sporting figures in France.

The descent to the commune of Bourg-Saint-Maurice was a wild one. Super fast stretches, hairy switchbacks, rough and unpredictable tarmac and blind narrow turns. It had it all.

Once on the main ancient Roman road to Milan via the Col du Petit-Saint-Bernard, Bourg-Saint-Maurice remains a crucial transport hub, not least for weary cyclists at the end of a long rewarding day.

According to Garmin