By Bike

Days 43-44 (15th-16th September) – Fiesch to Thonon-les-Bains.

Fed by mighty glaciers, including the Aletschgletscher, the upper Rhône River stretches from its source at the Rhône Glacier near Grimsel Pass to Lake Geneva.

A rain shadow effect created by the surrounding high mountain ranges results in a drier climate compared to other parts of Switzerland. And because of this, the Valley has been inhabited for thousands of years.

There is evidence of ancient Roman vineyards and winemaking dating back to at least the 4th century BC. The Valley is also known as the “breadbasket of Switzerland” for its fruit and vegetable production.

The glaciation of the last Ice Age created a wide, flat valley bottom flanked by steep mountain slopes, perfect for easy down-hill cycling along back roads and bike paths. It didn’t take us long to get to our overnight stop at Martigny.

We discovered there is much to see in this delightful town. We wandered the historic Martigny-Bourg district with its charming streets and buildings, then headed to the Fondation Pierre Gianadda, a significant hub for art and archaeology built around ancient Roman ruins.

It just so happened that there was a special exhibition showcasing around 60 Cézanne and Renoir masterpieces from the collections of the Musée de l’Orangerie and the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.

The museum also featured ruins and artefacts from Switzerland’s oldest Gallo-Roman temple discovered during construction.

There was a fine collection of vintage cars built between 1897 and 1939 including some remarkable contraptions from the very early years of motoring.

Along a corridor to the basement was a lovely photographic journey of scenes inspired by ones from The Adventures of Tintin by Léonard Gianadda, founder of the museum, as well as original painted and printed book covers and excerpts in different languages.

Outside was a beautiful sculpture garden featuring significant pieces by 20th-century artists, including works by Moore, Hepworth, Rodin and Brancusi.

On our way back to camp we came across a well-preserved Roman amphitheater dating back to the 2nd century.

A wonderful day out.

Feeling the need for some climbing, next day we took a detour via the Col de la Croix.

Then it was onto France and our camp at Thonon-les-Bains.

Our campground was close to Lake Geneva and the ecologically important Delta de la Dranse. A mix of sandy beaches, small islands, wetlands, marshes, dry, rocky alluvial terraces and mixed coniferous and deciduous woodlands, it’s the last remaining natural river delta and habitat for a multitude of plant, bird, reptiles, amphibian and mammal species. And a crucial stopover point for migratory birds.

According to Garmin