By Bike

Day 28 (31st Aust) – Längenfeld to Laas.

Today’s ride was the last of summer and our last in Austria.

We headed up the Ötztal valley where Ötzi the Iceman, a well-preserved natural mummy from around 3,300 BCE was discovered. Our route to Timmelsjoch (Timmels col) connects the valley with Italy. Traders like the Ötztaler Kraxenträger have used this route since medieval times and reputedly could carry as much as 100kg on their backs in goods like flax and cured bacon in exchange for wine and vinegar.

As we climbed, a coolish wind rushed down the Timmelsbach (Timmels brook) valley. Despite the steepness of the road it was a relief not to be climbing in intense heat. It also looked reminiscent of the soft hue and form of the high country back home.

From the lofty heights of Timmelsjoch the views into Italy were again spectacular. We have had such a good run of beautiful weather.

At the pass, we met a few other cyclists, one of whom had just completed the Ötztaler Radmarathon, one of the most challenging one-day amateur cycling marathons in the world – a 227 kms long and 5,500 m in elevation through four major Alpine passes. The fastest finish in under 7 hours!

Perched above the col is the Pass Museum designed by Italian architect Werner Tscholl. Inside are exhibits of the area including an ice cave and a fibula from 300 BC. While the foundations are on the Austrian side, it cantilevers 16m into the Italian side, to emphasise the cross-border nature of the pass. It is meant to resemble a boulder jutting out from the landscape. Reminded me of a space-ship from a popular sci-fi movie.

The descent into Italy was a wild affair of tunnels and switchbacks whilst negotiating the steep narrow road with camper vans, buses, motorbikes and lots of cyclists snaking their way up to the pass.

Just before lunch at Merano, I got another puncture! This new hi-tech equipment is great – only 40 minutes to change the tube!

After a rejuvenating pasta and best lemon soda lunch, we enjoyed riding a 40km bike bath along the Adige river to our destination at Laas.

According to Garmin