By Bike

Bormio to Bolzano

The big one. The iconic Passo dello Stelvio (2758m).

From Bormio (at 1,225m) to the pass it’s a 21 km of climbing and an ascent of 1,533m. Then it’s a 111km and 2,496m descent to Bolzano (262m). How cool.

Another early start. Great to get away early, I have the road to myself for an hour, before the noisy calavcade of motor bikes begins. After all my ‘preparation’, I feel like I’m floating up the mountain. A state of flow. Machine and human as one. Through tunnels, dozens of switchbacks, the climbing is steep, steady and sublime. At 2000m, the country opens out into a broad winding valley of alpine tundra. Cloud rolls over the pass. I ride the last km in a white out.

At the pass, I’ve made good time. 

I visit the plaque the the Italian champion Fausto Coppi, and replenish myself at one of the many restaurants.  

More memorabilia of il campionissimo.I head off into the white out on my never ending descent. I can barely see 10m in front of me. Thankfully the oncoming headlights are on the opposite side of the road. It is steeper with even more switchbacks on this side of the mountain. For the first 5 km I can hardly see a thing. I take it slow and safe.

Eventually, I drop below the cloud and the road starts to straighten. As I fly down the mountain, dozens of cyclists inch their way upwards.

After 25 km I meet the main highway. There’s heaps of traffic. Amazingly, there is a bike path that will take me along the banks of the river and away from road, almost the entire 85 km to Bolzano at an average descent of 1-2%. I could almost roll the whole way!

The early part of the ride is the best – winding its way in and out of beautiful forest, through the middle of apple orchards, along the side of the railway line and down little village laneways. All the while, within a stones throw of the river, growing ever larger as it is joined by the many tributaries that cascade down the valley walls. I pedal past bike path cafes and a self serve in one of the orchards. Lots of cyclists are out enjoying the warm afternoon. Mostly locals and tourists out for a leisurely ride. I slipstream a racer out on a training ride for 10 or so km. Another for a shorter distance. The last part is a bit of a grind, but I’m thankful I’m not mixing it with the traffic on the other side of the river.

Finally Bolzano.

The pain in my legs and butt have already started to recede. The memories of nine days of stunningly beautiful, dramatic and exhilarating riding will last forever.
According to Garmin

Total distance: 132.5km

Max speed: 62.16km

Calories: 4681

Ascent: 1646 m

Descent: 2531

Bolzano – Bolzano round trip (9 days cycling)

Total distance: 953 km

Max speed: 78.5km

Total ascent/descent: 18,889m